Laos

Overview

After years of war and isolation, Southeast Asia's most pristine environment, intact cultures and quite possibly the most chilled-out people on earth mean destination Laos is fast earning cult status among travellers. It is developing quickly but still has much of the tradition that has sadly disappeared elsewhere in the region. Village life is refreshingly simple and even in Vientiane it's hard to believe this sort of languid riverfront life exists in a national capital. Then, of course, there is the historic royal city of Luang Prabang, where watching as hundreds of saffron-robed monks move silently among centuries-old monasteries is as romantic a scene as you'll experience anywhere in Asia.

 

Away from the cities, there is so much more to see; the Plain of Jars in Xieng Khuang Province, the forested mountains of Northern Laos, the gothic limestone karsts around the backpacker-haven Vang Vieng and in the deep south, past the market town Pakse, is Si Phan Don (Four Thousand Islands), where the mighty Mekong spreads out and all the hammocks are taken.

 

The Lao wilderness is drawing travellers looking for nature, adventure or both. Kayaking, rafting, rock-climbing and biking are all available, but it's the community-based trekking that is most popular because it combines spectacular natural attractions with the chance to experience the - real Laos' with a village homestay - while spending your money where it's needed most.

 

There is undoubtedly a growing tourist trail in Laos, but that just means there's plenty of roads off Rte 13 where you can make your own trail. After all, half the fun of travelling here is in the travel itself - the people you meet, chickens you share seats with, wrong turns you take and Lào - láo you drink with the smiling family at the end of the road less travelled.

Getting there & Away

PASSPORT
The only real prerequisites for entering Laos are a passport with six months' validity and a visa if you are crossing at one of the few borders where you can't get a visa on arrival, such as the Cambodian border at Voen Kham.

TICKETS
Unless you're in a country bordering Laos, your first mission is to find a flight to Bangkok. Luckily there are plenty of flights to the Thai capital, but fares fluctuate sharply. Generally, you'll pay less but it will take longer if you fly to Bangkok with a stop on the way. For example, if you're flying from the UK you'll probably get a better deal with airlines such as Gulf Air, Emirates, Singapore ­Airlines, Garuda or, for those on the breadline, Biman Bangladesh - all of which involve a stop in the airline's home city - than you would on a direct flight with British Airways or Thai International Airways (THAI). Once you're in Bangkok, there are trains, planes and buses heading to Laos.

LAND
Border crossings
Laos shares land and/or river borders with Thailand, Myanmar, Cambodia, China and Vietnam. Border details change regularly, so ask around or check the Thorntree (thorntree.lonelyplanet.com/) before setting off.

Most crossings involve changing transport at the border, even when you've paid for a - direct' bus. Five of the crossings on the western border with Thailand involve quick boat trips across the Mekong.

It's possible to bring your own vehicle into Laos from Thailand, Vietnam and Cambodia with the right paperwork and Lao customs don't object to visitors bringing ­bicycles into the country.

In Thailand, trains (www.railway.co.th/english) run to the Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge and to Ubon Ratchathani, two to three hours from the Lao border.

Unless stated otherwise, Laos issues 30-day tourist visas at crossings that are open to foreigners.

Cambodia
The border with Cambodia at Voen Kham is open and while it's possible to get a Cambodian visa on arrival, for now you need to get your Laos visa in advance. There are two border points, one for road crossings and the other for boats to Stung Treng.

China
You can cross between Yunnan Province in China and Luang Nam Tha Province in Laos at Boten. From Mohan on the Chinese side it's a two- to three-hour minibus ride to Mengla, the nearest large town.

Myanmar
Foreigners are not allowed to cross between Laos and Myanmar. However, with a valid visa you could try to cross at Xieng Kok, on the Mekong north of Huay Xai, though success is far from guaranteed.

Thailand
There are seven crossings to Thailand open to foreigners. Several involve taking a boat across the Mekong, or crossing the river on one of the Friendship bridges. Borders here are listed from north to south.

Huay Xai & Chiang Khong
Crossing to or from northern Thailand at Huay Xai on the Laos side of the Mekong and Chiang Khong on the Thai side is popular with travellers coming from northern Thailand. This is the starting point for two-day boat trips to Luang Prabang.

The Friendship Bridge at Nong Khai (for Vientiane)
The Thai-Lao Friendship Bridge is 22km east of Vientiane. There are direct buses between downtown Vientiane and Nong Khai, and regular runs between Nong Khai and Bangkok.

Rapid and express trains from Bangkok's Hualamphong train station run daily to Nong Khai (11 to 14 hours). Overnight trains have sleeper carriages and make a convenient, comfortable and cheap way to get to the border while saving on a hotel room. Berths costs from 488B to 1217B; costs are higher when booked through an agent in Laos.

Plans to extend the rail line over the Friendship Bridge and 3km into Laos have been approved, so it might be possible to catch the train from the Laos side sometime in 2008.

Paksan & Beung Kan
This river crossing between Beung Kan in Thailand and Paksan in Laos, about 120km from Vientiane, is rarely used by travellers.

Tha Khaek & Nakhon Phanom
Another river crossing takes you from Nakhon Phanom in Thailand to Tha Khaek in Laos. Travellers who use this border are often crossing directly between Thailand and Vietnam.

Savannakhet & Mukdahan
This is the southernmost river crossing between Thailand and Laos. A bridge across the Mekong River near Savannakhet was opened in late 2006, giving travellers the ­option of a road or river crossing.

Vang Tao & Chong Mek
This border 44km west of Pakse is a popular and easy entry into southern Laos. Rapid and express trains from Bangkok's Hualamphong train station run three or four times per day to Ubon Ratchathani (sleeping berths 471B to 1180B, 12 hours, 575km), from where it's three or four hours to Pakse by local transport, or faster on the Thai-Lao International Bus.

Vietnam
At the time of writing foreigners could cross between Laos and Vietnam at six different border posts. Laos issues 30-day tourist visas at most of these, but you'll need to get your Vietnamese visa in advance. The border at Sop Hun in Phongsali Province, just across from Tay Trang (32km west of Dien Bien Phu), has been going to open for years but is still firmly shut. Keep your eyes on the Thorn Tree for the latest. These borders are listed from north to south.

Na Maew & Nam Xoi
For now, the northernmost crossing is on Rte 6A between Na Maew in Hua Phan Province, Laos, and Nam Xoi in Thanh Hoa Province, Vietnam. This crossing can be difficult on both sides, especially given how expensive the infrequent transport on the Vietnam side is. It is, however, the nearest border to Hanoi and the north, so if you're adventurous and want to avoid backtracking, it's worth a shot. Na Maew is a relatively short bus ride to/from Sam Neua, where there are buses and planes to other points in Laos. No visas are issued here.

Nam Can & Nam Khan
This border east of Phonsavan in Xieng Khuang Province sounds better than it actually is. Even though you're a long way north of the Kaew Neua Pass crossing, the road on the Vietnam side runs so far south (almost to Vinh) before joining north-south Hwy 1 that this border is totally inconvenient.

Nam Phao & Cau Treo
The spectacular crossing through the Kaew Neua Pass, via the low-key border posts of Nam Phao on the Lao side, and Cau Treo in Vietnam, leads to Vinh and all points north, including Hanoi. Direct buses between Vientiane and Hanoi take this route, but it's a long, torturously slow and uncomfortable trip. If you can take the pain, buses leave Vientiane's Northern Bus Station every day for Vinh (US$16, 16 hours) and Hanoi (US$20, 24 hours), and occasionally for Hue (US$17, at least 24 hours), Danang (US$20, at least 24 hours) and even Ho Chi Minh City (US$45, up to 48 hours).

Na Phao & Cha Lo
Even though this remote border has a nice new highway on the Laos side, we've still never met anyone who's actually crossed here. Transport runs all the way across this border from Tha Khaek to Dong Hoi in Vietnam, and back. However, no visas are available here yet.

Dansavanh & Lao Bao
Good roads and plentiful transport make the border at Dansavanh (Laos) and Lao Bao, 255km east of Savannakhet, probably the easiest of all crossings to/from Vietnam. If you're heading to/from Huế, Hoi An or anywhere in central Vietnam, it's recommended. The downside, however, is that if you want to see all of Vietnam you're in for a fair bit of backtracking.

Attapeu & Quy Nhon
The newest crossing to Vietnam's central highlands is at Bo Y between remote Attapeu Province and Quy Nhon, though it doesn't really fit any existing travelling routes. Visas on arrival are not guaranteed.

ENTERING THE DESTINATION
Entering laos
It’s possible to enter Laos by land or air from Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam or China. Land borders are often remote and the travelling can be tough either side, but the actual frontier crossing is usually pretty simple.

Air
Airports & airlines
There are only three international airports in Laos. Wattay International Airport (VTE; 021-512165) in Vientiane; Luang Prabang International Airport (LPQ; 071-212856) and Pakse International Airport (PKZ; 031-212844). Lao Airlines is the national carrier and monopolises the majority of flights in and out of the country, though many code-share with some of the following:

Bangkok Airways (071-253334; www.bangkokair.com; hub Bangkok, Thailand) Code PG.

China Eastern Airlines (021-212300; www.chinaeastern.com; hub Kunming, China) Code MU.

Lao Airlines (021-212051–4; www.laoairlines.com; hub Vientiane) Code QV.

Thai Airways International (THAI; 021-222527; www.thaiair.com; hub Bangkok, Thailand) Code TG.

Vietnam Airlines (021-217562; www.vietnamairlines.com; hub Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam) Code VN.

Asia
Almost any travel agency in Asia can book you a flight to Laos. STA Travel is always a safe bet, and has branches in Bangkok (02-236 0262; www.sta travel.co.th), Singapore (6737 7188; www.statravel.com.sg) and Japan (03 5391 2922; www.statravel.co.jp) among others. In Hong Kong try Concorde Travel (2375 2232; www.concorde-travel.com).

Phnom Penh
Between Phnom Penh and Vientiane (US$145, 1½ hours) there are two flights a week with Lao Airlines (stopping in Pakse) and a daily direct flight with Vietnam Airlines.

Siem Reap
Lao Airlines flies between Siem Reap and Vientiane (US$110, 2½ hours) five times a week, stopping at Pakse (US$70, 50 minutes). From November to March there are two more flights between Siem Reap and Pakse that continue to Luang Prabang (US$135). Bangkok Airways should also be flying between Pakse and Siem Reap by the time you read this.

Kunming
Lao Airlines shares three services a week between Kunming and Vientiane (US$120, 2½ hours) with China Eastern Airlines.

Bangkok
THAI has one flight daily between Bangkok and Vientiane (about 5000B, 70 minutes), while Lao Airlines has two flights in each direction (US$99); discounts are available on THAI.

Some people save money by flying from Bangkok to Udon Thani in Thailand and then carrying on by road to Nong Khai, over the Friendship Bridge to Vientiane. Udon Thani is 55km south of Nong Khai and Bangkok–Udon tickets on Thai Air Asia (www.airasia.com) start at about 1300B.

Bangkok Airways flies daily between Bangkok and Luang Prabang (5000B, 1¾ hours), and Lao Airlines has three flights a week for US$120.

Bangkok Airways should be flying between Bangkok and Pakse by the time you read this.

Chiang Mai
Lao Airlines has five flights a week between Vientiane and Chiang Mai (US$111, 2½ hours), via Luang Prabang (US$85, one hour).

Hanoi
There are 10 flights a week between Vientiane and Hanoi – three on Lao Airlines (US$115, one hour) and the rest on Vietnam Airlines for slightly more. Lao Airlines also flies between Hanoi and Luang Prabang (US$112, one hour).

Ho Chi Minh City
Vietnam Airlines flies from Ho Chi Minh City to Vientiane (US$140, three hours) daily, via Phnom Penh.

Australia
Qantas, THAI, British Airways and several other airlines fly to Bangkok from Sydney, Melbourne and Perth, with discount fares starting at about A$900 return (once you’ve added in all the taxes). For online bookings also check www.travel.com.au.

Flight Centre (133 133; www.flightcentre.com.au)

STA Travel (1300 733 035; www.statravel.com.au)

Canada
Fares from Canada are similar to those from the US. Travel Cuts (866-246 9762; www.travelcuts.com) is Canada’s national student travel agency. Also try Travelocity (www.travelocity.ca).

Continental europe
Europeans can pick up discounted seats from about €550. Middle Eastern airlines are usually cheapest. The following agents are worth a look:

Lastminute (www.lastminute.com) Click through to various national sites.

Nouvelles Frontières (0825-000 747; ­www.nouvelles-frontieres.fr)

OTU Voyages (01-5582 3232; www.otu.fr) Specialising in student and youth travellers.

STA Travel (01805-456 422; www.statravel.de)

Voyages Wasteels (www.wasteels.fr)

New Zealand
Both Flight Centre (0800-243 544; www.flightcentre.co.nz) and STA Travel (0800-474 400; www.statravel.co.nz) have branches throughout the country. Low season fares start at NZ$1250.

The UK
It’s not hard to find a bargain from London to Bangkok, with discount prices starting at about £350. Gulf Air, Emirates, KLM and Lufthansa are worth looking at. Check the weekend broadsheet newspapers, Time Out, the Evening Standard and TNT magazine for offers.

Recommended agencies:

North-South Travel (01245-608 291; www.northsouthtravel.co.uk) Donates some profit to projects in the developing world.

STA Travel (0871-230 0040; www.statravel.co.uk)

Trailfinders (0845-058 5858; www.trailfinders.co.uk)

Travel Bag (0870-814 4441, toll free 0800 082 5000; www.travelbag.co.uk)

The USA
Fares from New York to Bangkok range widely, with the cheapest (via places like Moscow) starting at about US$850 return in the low season. From Los Angeles it's cheaper, and more direct, with airlines like Philippine Airlines, China Airlines, Eva Air and American Airlines. Nondiscounted fares are several hundred dollars more. The following are good for online comparisons and bookings:

Cheapflights.com (www.cheapflights.com)

Cheap Tickets (www.cheaptickets.com)

Expedia (www.expedia.com)

Orbitz (www.orbitz.com)

STA Travel (www.sta.com)

Travelocity (www.travelocity.com)

Getting Around

Boat
More than 4600km of navigable rivers are the highways and byways of traditional Laos, the main thoroughfares being the Mekong, Nam Ou, Nam Khan, Nam Tha, Nam Ngum and Se Kong. The Mekong is the longest and most important route and is, in theory if no longer in practice, navigable year-round between Luang Prabang in the north and Savannakhet in the south (about 70% of its length in Laos). Smaller rivers accommodate a range of smaller boats, from dugout canoes to -bomb boats' made from junk dropped from the skies during the Second Indochina War.

Sealed roads and buses, however, mean that the days of mass river transport are as good as finished. Every time a new road is opened more boatmen go out of business, unable to compete with the price and pace of those modern conveyors of the masses - buses and sǎwngthǎew. This aspect of progress means local people have access to faster and cheaper travel, and it's not our place to begrudge them that. However, from a travellers' point of view, the gradual death of river transport is a great shame. There were few things more romantic than sitting on a slow boat, tacking from one riverside village to another as the boat worked its way along the river, picking up people, produce and animals on the way.

While there are barely any regular local boats on the Mekong anymore, there are still a few places left where you can do this, if you're prepared to get right off the beaten river and seek out the adventure…and you can be certain it will be a memorable trip, one way or another. So whether it’s on a tourist boat from Huay Xai to Luang Prabang or on a local boat you've rustled up in some remote corner of the country, it's still worth doing at least one river excursion while in Laos.

River taxi
For shorter river trips, such as Luang Prabang to the Pak Ou Caves, it's usually best to hire a river taxi. The héua hang nyáo (longtail boats) are the most typical, though for a really short trip (eg crossing a river) a héua phái (rowboat) or one of the small improvised ferries can be hired. The héua hang nyáo are around US$5 an hour for a boat with an eight- to 10-person capacity. Larger boats that carry up to 20 passengers are sometimes available for about US$8 per hour, although higher tourist prices are often applied, and prices go up with fuel consumption if you're heading upriver when the river is at full flood.

Along the upper Mekong River between Huay Xai and Vientiane, and on the Nam Ou between Luang Prabang and Hat Sa (Phongsali), Thai-built héua wái (speedboats) are common. They can cover a distance in six hours that might take a ferry two days or more. Charters cost at least US$20 per hour, but some ply regular routes so the cost can be shared among passengers.

Hitching
Hitching is possible in Laos, if not common, though it's never entirely safe and not recommended for women as the act of standing beside a road and waving at cars might be misinterpreted. If you are hitching, cars with red-on-yellow (private vehicle) or blue-on-white (international organisations and embassies) number plates might be the best ones to target. Long-distance cargo trucks are also a good bet.

Bus & tram
Bus, sǎwngthǎew & lot doi saan
Long-distance public transport in Laos is either by bus or sǎwngthǎew (literally - two rows'), which are converted pick-ups or trucks with benches down either side. Buses are more frequent and go further than ever before in Laos, and destinations that were all but inaccessible a few years ago now see regular services. Private operators have established services on some busier routes -particularly along Rte 13 and on international routes -offering faster and more-luxurious air-con buses, known as VIP buses, which are also pretty good value at about US$2 per 100km -about 1.5 times the normal bus price.

That's not to say local buses have disappeared completely. Far from it. You can still do the main routes by local bus, and on most journeys off Rte 13 you won't have any option.

If you can't live without your air-con, it's worth booking ahead. You'll usually have to go to the bus station to do this, though increasingly guesthouses can book tickets for a small fee.

Sǎwngthǎew usually service shorter routes within a given province. Most decent-sized villages have at least one sǎwngthǎew, which will run to the provincial capital and back most days. Like local buses, they stop wherever you want but are generally slower given that the roads they ply are usually unpaved. And, given that everyone is sitting on-top-of/facing each other, they're even more social than the bus.

The final type of transport is the lot doi saan (wooden bus). These big, rumbling trucks with wooden cabins built on the back with forward facing seats were once the mainstay of Lao transport. They can handle the worst road conditions and these days that's where you'll find them - on routes that are unpassable to anything else.

Bus
Vientiane is the only city with a network of local buses, though they're not much good to travellers.

Car & motorcycle
Driving in Laos is easier than you might think. Sure, the road infrastructure is pretty basic, but outside of the large centres there are so few vehicles that it's a doddle compared to Vietnam, China or Thailand.

Motorcyclists planning to ride through Laos should check out the wealth of information at Golden Triangle Rider (www.GT-Rider.com). Doing some sort of motorbike loop is becoming increasingly popular among travellers.

Hire
Chinese- and Japanese-made 100 and 110cc step-through motorbikes can be hired for between US$5 and US$15 per day in most large centres. No licence is required. Try to get a Japanese bike (the ominously named Suzuki Smash, perhaps) if you're travelling any distance out of town. In Vientiane, Pakse and Vang Vieng 250cc dirt bikes are available for about US$20 per day.

It's possible to hire a self-drive vehicle, but when you consider that a driver usually costs no more, takes responsibility for damage and knows where he's going, it seems pointless. Informal charters can be arranged almost anywhere, with small Japanese pick-ups going for between US$40 and US$100 per day, depending on where you're going; the rougher the road, the higher the price.

Airlines in Laos
Lao Airlines is the only airline in Laos. It handles all domestic flights, with Vientiane as the main hub. The Laos Air Fares map gives you an idea of all Laos's scheduled air routes and prices, both domestic and international; for the latest fares check Lao Airlines'' website (www.laoairlines.com).

Prices have been fairly steady in recent years and are reasonable value. Except at Lao Airlines' offices in Vientiane and Luang Prabang, where credit cards are accepted for both international and domestic tickets, you must pay cash in US dollars.

Lao Airlines schedules are increasingly reliable but flights still get cancelled semi-regularly. During the holiday season it's best to book ahead as flights can fill fast. At other times, when flights are more likely to be cancelled, confirm the flight is still going a day or two before.

In its previous incarnation as Lao Aviation, Lao Airlines had a bad reputation and travellers still ask whether it's safe. The answer is - pretty much'. Almost everything about the airline - the planes, maintenance and pilots -has improved and there haven't been any serious incidents for several years. French ATR-72 planes operate most international routes and many domestic flights, though some of the domestic flights use older and less-reliable Chinese or Russian planes.

Local transport
Apart from in Vientiane and, to a lesser extent, in Savannakhet and Pakse, you'll seldom need local transport because towns and cities are small enough to walk and cycle around.

Jumbo, sǎam-lâaw, sakai-làep, ­tuk-tuk
The various three-wheeled taxis found in Vientiane and provincial capitals have different names depending on where you are. Larger ones are called jÄ…mbÇ«h (jumbo) and can hold four to six passengers on two facing seats. In Vientiane they are sometimes called tuk-tuk as in Thailand (though traditionally in Laos this refers to a slightly larger vehicle than the jumbo), while in the south (eg Pakse and Savannakhet) they may be called sakai-làep (Skylab) because someone, probably on opium at the time, once thought they looked like the famous space station that crashed to earth. But wait, there's more…these three-wheeled conveyances are also labelled simply thaek-sii (taxi) or, usually for motorcycle sidecar-style vehicles, sǎam-lâaw (samlor or three-wheels). Whatever you call it people will usually know what you're after. The old-style bicycle sǎam-lâaw (pedicab), known as a cyclo elsewhere in Indochina, is an endangered species in Laos. If you can find a sǎam-lâaw, fares are about the same as for motorcycle taxis.

Fares vary according to the city and your bargaining skills. Locals generally pay about US$0.25 per kilometre on trips no longer than about 20km. However, in Vientiane and other towns that see plenty of tourists, serious bargaining is required.

Bicycle
The stunning roads and light, relatively slow traffic in most towns and on most highways make Laos arguably the best country for cycling in Southeast Asia. Several tour agencies and guesthouses offer mountain biking tours, ranging in duration from a few hours to several weeks.

Hire
Simple single-speed bicycles with names like Hare, Crocodile and Rabbit can be hired in most places that see a decent number of tourists, usually costing between US$0.50 and US$1.50 per day. Mountain bikes can be hired in a few places, including Luang Nam Tha, Vientiane, Vang Vieng and even Khoun Kham, for between US$1.50 and US$5 per day.

These mostly Thai- or Chinese-made bikes come in varying degrees of usability, so be sure to inspect them thoroughly before hiring. Common problems include loose seats or handlebars and broken bells. Ask and you can usually get the seat adjusted to suit your height.

Weather

When to go
The best time for visiting most of Laos is between November and February, when it rains the least and is not too hot. It's also Laos's main season for both national and regional bun (festivals).

If you plan to focus on the mountainous northern provinces, the hot season (from March to May) and early rainy season (around June) is not bad either, as temperatures are moderate at higher elevations. Southern Laos, on the other hand, is best avoided from March to May, when day-time temperatures break into the 40s and nights aren't much cooler.

The rainy season is not as bad as you might think. While it will rain - very heavily - the downpours are often fairly brief and can be bracketed by long periods of sunshine. The rains also clear dust from the skies and land, making everything clearer and brighter. Of course, there are downsides; unsealed roads can become quagmires and extensive travel in remote areas like Salavan, Phongsali and Sainyabuli might be impossible. River travel can be a good alternative during these months. If you intend to travel extensively by river, November is the best; flooding has usually subsided yet river levels are still high enough for maximum navigability. Between January and June, low water can make navigating some rivers difficult.

December to February and August are the peak tourist times. January, in particular, is very busy and booking ahead is advisable.

Health & Safety

Before you go
Pack medications in their original, clearly labelled, containers. A signed and dated letter from your physician describing your medical conditions and medications, including generic names, is also a good idea. If carrying syringes or needles, be sure to have a physician's letter documenting their medical necessity. If you have a heart condition bring a copy of your ECG taken just prior to travelling.

If you happen to take any regular medication, bring double your needs in case of loss or theft. In Laos it can be difficult to find some of the newer drugs, particularly the latest antidepressant drugs, blood pressure medications and contraceptive pills.

Insurance
Even if you are fit and healthy, don't travel without health insurance - accidents do happen. Declare any existing medical conditions you have - the insurance company will check if your problem is pre-existing and will not cover you if it is undeclared. You may require extra cover for adventure activities such as rock climbing. If your health insurance doesn't cover you for medical expenses abroad, consider getting extra insurance -check lonelyplanet.com for more information. If you're uninsured, emergency evacuationis expensive; bills of over US$100, 000 are not uncommon.

Find out in advance if your insurance plan will make payments directly to providers or reimburse you later for overseas health expenditures. (In many countries doctors expect payment in cash.) Some policies offer lower and higher medical-expense options; the higher ones are chiefly for countries that have extremely high medical costs, such as the USA. You may prefer a policy that pays doctors or hospitals directly rather than you having to pay on the spot and claim later. If you have to claim later, keep all the documentation. Some policies ask you to call back (reverse charges) to a centre in your home country where an immediate assessment of your problem is made.

Vaccinations
The only vaccine required by international regulations is yellow fever. Proof of vaccination will only be required if you have visited a country in the yellow-fever zone within the six days prior to entering Southeast Asia. If you are travelling to Southeast Asia from Africa or South America you should check to see if you require proof of vaccination.

Specialised travel-medicine clinics are your best source of information; they stock all available vaccines and will be able to give specific recommendations for you and your trip. The doctors will take into account factors such as past vaccination history, the length of your trip, activities you may be undertaking, and underlying medical conditions, such as pregnancy.

Most vaccines don't produce immunity until at least two weeks after they're given, so visit a doctor four to eight weeks before departure. Ask your doctor for an International Certificate of Vaccination (otherwise known as the yellow booklet), which will list all the vaccinations you've received. In the US, the yellow booklet is no longer issued, but it is highly unlikely the Lao authorities will ask for proof of vaccinations (unless you have recently been in a yellow-fever affected country).

Internet resources
There is a wealth of travel health advice on the internet. The World Health Organization (WHO; www.who.int/ith/) publishes a superb book called International Travel & Health, which is revised annually and is available online at no cost. Another website of general interest is MD Travel Health (www.mdtravelhealth.com), which provides complete travel health recommendations for every country and is updated daily. The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC; www.cdc.gov) website also has good general information.

Further reading
Lonely Planet's Healthy Travel - Asia & India is a handy pocket-size book that is packed with useful information including pretrip planning, emergency first aid, immunisation and disease information and what to do if you get sick on the road. Other recommended references include Traveller's Health by Dr Richard Dawood and Travelling Well by Dr Deborah Mills - check out the website ­ (www.travellingwell.com.au).

Recommended vaccinations
The World Health Organization (WHO) recommends the following vaccinations for travellers to Southeast Asia:

Adult diphtheria and tetanus - Single booster recommended if you've had none in the previous 10 years. Side effects include a sore arm and fever.

Hepatitis A - Provides almost 100% protection for up to a year; a booster after 12 months provides at least another 20 years' protection. Mild side effects such as headache and a sore arm occur for between 5% and 10% of people.

Hepatitis B - Now considered routine for most travellers. Given as three shots over six months. A rapid schedule is also available, as is a combined vaccination with Hepatitis A. Side effects are mild and uncommon, usually a headache and sore arm. Lifetime protection occurs in 95% of people.

Measles, mumps and rubella - Two doses of MMR required unless you have had the diseases. Occasionally a rash and flulike illness can develop a week after receiving the vaccine. Many young adults require a booster.

Polio - In 2002, no countries in Southeast Asia reported cases of polio. Only one booster is required as an adult for lifetime protection. Inactivated polio vaccine is safe during pregnancy.

Typhoid - Recommended unless your trip is less than a week and only to developed cities. The vaccine offers around 70% protection, lasts for two to three years and comes as a single shot. Tablets are also available; however, the injection is usually recommended as it has fewer side effects. Sore arm and fever may occur.

Varicella - If you haven-t had chickenpox, discuss this vaccination with your doctor.

long-term travellers

These vaccinations are recommended for people travelling for more than one month, or those at special risk:

Japanese B Encephalitis - Three injections in all. Booster recommended after two years. A sore arm and headache are the most common side effects. Rarely, an allergic reaction comprising hives and swelling can occur up to 10 days after any of the three doses.

Meningitis - Single injection. There are two types of vaccination: the quadrivalent vaccine gives two to three years protection; meningitis group C vaccine gives around 10 years protection. Recommended for long-term backpackers aged under 25.

Rabies - Three injections in all. A booster after one year will provide 10 years protection. Side effects are rare - occasionally a headache and sore arm.

Tuberculosis - Adult long-term travellers are usually recommended to have a TB skin test before and after travel, rather than vaccination. Only one vaccine is given in a lifetime.

Medical checklist
Recommended items for a personal medical kit:

antifungal cream, eg Clotrimazole

antibacterial cream, eg Muciprocin

antibiotics for skin infections, eg Amoxicillin/Clavulanate or Cephalexin

antibiotics for diarrhoea, eg Norfloxacin or Ciprofloxacin; Azithromycin for bacterial diarrhoea; and Tinidazole for giardiasis or amoebic dysentery

antihistamines for allergies, eg Cetrizine for daytime and Promethazine for night

anti-inflammatories, eg Ibuprofen

antinausea medication, eg Prochlorperazine

antiseptic for cuts and scrapes, eg Betadine

antispasmodic for stomach cramps, eg Buscopa

contraceptives

decongestant for colds and flus, eg Pseudoephedrine

DEET-based insect repellent

diarrhoea ‘stopper', eg Loperamide

first-aid items such as scissors, plasters (Band Aids), bandages, gauze, thermometer (electronic, not mercury), sterile needles and syringes, and tweezers

indigestion medication, eg Quick Eze or Mylanta

iodine tablets (unless you are pregnant or have a thyroid problem) to purify water

laxative, eg Coloxyl

migraine medication (your personal brand), if a migraine sufferer

oral-rehydration solution for diarrhoea, eg Gastrolyte

paracetamol for pain

permethrin (to impregnate clothing and mosquito nets) for repelling insects

steroid cream for allergic/itchy rashes, eg 1% to 2% hydrocortisone

sunscreen and hat

throat lozenges

thrush (vaginal yeast infection) treatment, eg Clotrimazole pessaries or Diflucan tablet

urine alkalisation agent, eg Ural, if you're prone to urinary tract infections.

Visas